Author Topic: DB10 Muzzle Brake (Read 1199 times)

Klo55 · « **on:** December 10, 2018, 05:13:58 PM »

Having issues clocking brake. Bought a Troy claymore brake and if I screw it all the way on and clock correctly I can still spin crush washer. It’s like the barrel is threaded too long. If I use 2 crush washers it’s perfect. Is there any issue in doing this or should I order a 5/8x24 jam nut?

pecospuppy · « **Reply #1 on:** December 11, 2018, 11:42:11 PM »

I'm no expert, but I would think if the brake doesn't come loose then it's ok to do.

Chris · « **Reply #2 on:** December 12, 2018, 11:57:08 AM »

Might check into the various shim kits in lieu of crush washers (or add a shim to the crush washer). Some are single thickness shims that you stack, and others are packs of different size shims where you select the one that clocks your brake properly when tight. I'd also try that brake on another barrel and if you get the same result's chances are it's the brake.

TC Campbell · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2019, 09:15:28 PM »

I had the same problem I used blue locktite and it worked out perfectly

Wobly · « **Reply #4 on:** October 17, 2019, 09:15:05 PM »

I had a similar issue. I went to the range on Saturday and the muzzle brake came loose. When I tightened it back up, it wasn't clocked correctly. I went by my local gunsmith and he put on a new shim, crush washer and used red Loctite. It's set on there now!

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Chris · « **Reply #5 on:** October 18, 2019, 08:33:01 AM »

Page 13 of the PDF. If yours measures to spec, then your Troy Claymore is the problem.

Both the AR15 and AR10 use the same length spec of .620"

https://www.advanced-armament.com/assets/images/pdf/manuals/ThreadGuideREV_01-040513.PDF